Valentine Sipavin

From May, 1 till May, 9th, 2010 in Crimea have passed Vseukrainsky competitions on mountaineering of memory of A.Kustovskogo “small mountains 2010″. And Valentine Sipavin, our guide, and Evgenie Poltavets confidently became champions, having won the contenders in all three stages of competitions:

1. School-1, difficulty: Valentine Sipavin has shown the first result, Evgenie Poltavets — the second
2. School-2, sheaves: Valentine Sipavin and Evgenie Poltavets the first! The nearest contenders lag behind more, than for 5 minutes!
3. Ascensions: two routes of the highest category of complexity on Shaan-Kaju — Hyperboreas and the Samurai!

We congratulate!

master of sports of Russia

December 16, 2009 16/12/2009 Minister of Sport, Tourism and Youth Policy of Russia Mutko VL signed an order conferring a sports title “Master of Sports of Russia” in mountaineering Podlesniy Dmitry! Dmitry performed the standard in the accelerated momentum of the required number of points for two years instead of four. Congratulations!

Odessa peak (4810 m). Route Kritsuka 6B k.sl

21/11/2009 judging took altitude-technical class of the Championship of Russia. In this class, in 2009, was represented by 8 teams: Groupage Moscow and Belarus, the team of St. Petersburg, Irkutsk, Novosibirsk, Tyumen, Sverdlovsk, Rostov Region and Moscow. All teams submitted reports of serious climbs in different mountain systems in the world. Before the judges was a difficult task in the distribution of seats among the participants. And the more valuable that the team of the Rostov region, which includes our guide Dmitry Podlesny, with the passage in July of this year’s Tour Kritsuka 6B category of difficulty (the highest) at the peak of Odessa (4810 m) took second place!

Peak of Odessa is located in Kyrgyzstan, Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Ridge. Vorukh nearest village is 50 km from the base camp. Traveled from the village under the wall 2 days with a caravan of mules.
The route, which has selected a team for playing in the Championship of Russia, has a length of 1.5 miles, vertical drop - 1100 meters, average slope of 74 oz., The length of plots of maximum complexity - 1155 m, and evaluated by a classification committee as the most difficult - 6B category.
Passage of such a route requires not only a major technical training, special equipment, but also a special mental attitude - on the wall will not only work but live and not live a single day.
For the ascent were prepared two special tent platforms; wall trunks for transportation of personal belongings, equipment, food, water, equipment for the route of the wall, a special gas equipment for cooking on the wall …
Nobody knew how much time is needed for climbing, unstable weather can greatly prolong the climb. And indeed, the weather was not lucky: when the team arrived at the wall in early July, in the mountains it was winter with snow. Since arriving at the peak of the wall of Odessa, the weather was steadily monotonous: snow and rain. This weather did not prevent a drop off the goods under the wall, during which the whole group was able to acclimate. Further program do not translate into the current weather conditions, but to wait for better weather was not possible - the expedition was limited, so they decided to catch a weather window and these windows, at least, to start processing route.
5 th managed to fix the wall 2 pitches. 6-second run on the route was not possible - was wet snow and rain. 7-th till lunch to fix another 3 cords. The work was complicated by the effects of yesterday’s weather - the wall was zaleplena snow. After lunch the weather turned bad again - all the same rain and snow hopeless, and 8, and 9 July.
Finally on July 10 gave a good weather forecast - have decided to break away. Indeed, the 10 th was partly cloudy with no rain, managed to reach the shelves, which set the platform and spent a further two nights. But the job that day was complicated in the morning, left over from yesterday’s snow, and the second - falls from him.
But as the snow and ice on the wall was very much, you guys were able to save considerably in weight load on start-up water supplies.
The good weather lasted only one day. 11 and 12 July has again been snowing with rain. But the 12-th still able to move the tent platform above the wall and set them at an altitude of 4200 meters above the 13th start much colder, snow and rain moved slowly just in the snow. The temperature dropped to 10 degrees below zero.
In such weather conditions, even with the change of ligaments, could not move as quickly as hoped, but still they moved up.
In the night from 14 th to 15 th the storm intensified - the wall and platforms buried in snow. But by this time the team has already managed to pass a significant portion of the wall. On the morning of 15 th weather has improved. They went out on a route at 6 am. On snow-covered wall with hard work till the ridge - a lot of unpleasant moments added flying above pieces of ice falling off the wall because of the sun appears intermittently. By the hour of the day climbed to the top, a moment of delight! … And down - was still ahead 1.5 km descent on the wall …
Judges appreciated not only the technical skill of the children, but also their moral and volitional qualities and mental attitude to win! The victory not over the hill, no! No other members of the championship! And over his imperfect body, and sometimes panic, the victory over himself!

Festival of climbing

The third festival of rock climbing on a cup of the Crimean Mountain Club will be held on the new routes in Bakhchisarai 30 October - 1 November.

Through the joint efforts of the Crimean mountain club and enthusiasts, rocky areas Bakhchisaray start a new life. During the period from October 2008 on the sector “Linza(lens)” and around 16 new routes have appeared of from 5 to 7b +. At Osen’2009 Cup will be launched for another 10 new routes, you may be and the complexity of the line 8a.

The festival will take place in two stages. Saturday 31 October will rock marathon. Within 5 hours the participants to storm record-route the rocky area. At the end of the marathon in the sector “Lenses” will be a party with music.

By the results of the marathon will be determined the finalists. On November 1 Sunday starts the final place in the men’s and women’s championships award winners. In prize money - medals cups, prizes. In addition, all participants of the festival will receive the original T-shirts with the logo of the festival.

Registration is open at the site of the Crimean Mountain Club:http://mountcrimea.com

Organizers - Crimean Mountain Club and the thematic
social network http://ex3m.su

Asan

For the first time getting in Karavshin, involuntarily freezes on the type of Asana, whose profile by actually rises above the base camp. Being familiar with the tops of the area only from photographs, still some sense of long-standing acquaintance with those walls felt: As long as our helicopter not flown into the valley itself. When shooting video at this time in the cockpit with the pilots, I nearly choked on the type FULLY snow walls Asana and dropped the camera on a steel floor …

After a couple of days of acclimatization, climbed on the yellow walls of the classical 5A for exercise and began to wonder, where do to go further.

After consultations chosen route Gorbenko at Asan 6A. Route attracted by its beauty - Is exactly in the center of the wall and goes straight to the top. And the fact that since 1999 on this route, according to our knowledge, no one rose to the top, added zest to the event.

And then, as always: come and climbed. Climb 4 days, because the tent platforms were not, and ledges strictly on schedule At the extreme top of the wall met the ceiling at 30 feet in the wet Chimney, which ended 10 feet icicle.

АAnd then mix, mix, mix: Rock Shoes and Ice axe, and without even without a lost Fifi hook

The summit met this storm and snow. Had spent the night in a tent 50 meters from the coveted point, having waited the storm and had drunk enough tea to 19.00, we ventured to the link with the base camp to go to the top.

Thus, we were the first who opened the account the routes of the highest category in the 2009 season in Karavshin, having a good style of a beautiful and logical route to deuce on the very center of the wall Asana…

Dmitry Podlesny on the wall of the peak of 4810

Team Rostov Region (which includes our guide Dmitry Podlesny) safely returned from the expedition in the Kara-Su Valley (Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range)! The team climbed to the peak of 4810 on the route Kritsuka - 6b (the highest) category of complexity. They spent six days on the wall in two tents hanging platforms. Transferred to the tents as we move along the route. The ascent was complicated by severe weather, it is extrinsic to the region at this time of year. But despite all the difficulties, the team as a whole reached the summit and down safely! Congratulations!

An account of this ascent will be served Judges Cup of Russia in the altitude-technical class. The results of the Championship will be known in November 2009.

peak"4810"

In July this year, our guides Dmitriy Podlesny and Valentin Sipavin go to Karavshin (Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, Kara-Su Valley).
Granite peaks of the area are rightfully on a par with such recognized giants as wall El Captain in Yosemite, Trang in Pakistan, Hunter Kichatna in Alaska, Fitzroy and Sierra Torre in Patagonia.
Valentine goes to Karavshin as part of the Ukraine national team of Ukraine, Dmitri as part of the national team of the Rostov region. Team of Rostov Region is planning to climb the peak “4810″ in the Championship of Russia in high-technology classroom and the peak of Asan in the championship of the Southern Federal District.
Good luck to Dmitry and Valentin, and their teams!

Morcheka

The Ukraine Championship in a small mountains class took place in Crimea from May 1st till 8th. The championship has two stages — classification (school) and climb. The school this year was held in the updated format and has been broken into two stages— climb on difficulty and climb with use of artificial points of support. The stage of ascensions had 3 climbs in 4 days. Participants were offered a choice of several routes of different difficulty rating. Team that won first place in the school stage picked the first route. Team finished first on each preceding route chose the next one.

Within 4 days Valentine Sipavin and Evgenie Poltavets climbed the highest rating routes — “Drugba (Friendship)” on the Treugolnik (Triangle), “Sezon Dogdey (the Season of rains)” and “Igrok (Player)” on Morcheke. They have shown high level of physical and technical. Routes were passed with high speed and in excellent style. Based on results of two stages of the Championship guys have won the first place! Our congratulations!

Western wall of Fisht Northern

The command of the Rostov region  (into which our guide Podlesniy Dmitry), has occupied 4 place in XXVII championship of Russia on mountaineering of 2009 (a class of first-climb), having made first-climb on the Western wall of top of Fisht Northern (Caucasus). We congratulate!
On materials of a site of Federation of Mountaineering of Russia