Odessa peak (4810 m). Route Kritsuka 6B k.sl
21/11/2009 judging took altitude-technical class of the Championship of Russia. In this class, in 2009, was represented by 8 teams: Groupage Moscow and Belarus, the team of St. Petersburg, Irkutsk, Novosibirsk, Tyumen, Sverdlovsk, Rostov Region and Moscow. All teams submitted reports of serious climbs in different mountain systems in the world. Before the judges was a difficult task in the distribution of seats among the participants. And the more valuable that the team of the Rostov region, which includes our guide Dmitry Podlesny, with the passage in July of this year’s Tour Kritsuka 6B category of difficulty (the highest) at the peak of Odessa (4810 m) took second place!
Peak of Odessa is located in Kyrgyzstan, Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Ridge. Vorukh nearest village is 50 km from the base camp. Traveled from the village under the wall 2 days with a caravan of mules.
The route, which has selected a team for playing in the Championship of Russia, has a length of 1.5 miles, vertical drop - 1100 meters, average slope of 74 oz., The length of plots of maximum complexity - 1155 m, and evaluated by a classification committee as the most difficult - 6B category.
Passage of such a route requires not only a major technical training, special equipment, but also a special mental attitude - on the wall will not only work but live and not live a single day.
For the ascent were prepared two special tent platforms; wall trunks for transportation of personal belongings, equipment, food, water, equipment for the route of the wall, a special gas equipment for cooking on the wall …
Nobody knew how much time is needed for climbing, unstable weather can greatly prolong the climb. And indeed, the weather was not lucky: when the team arrived at the wall in early July, in the mountains it was winter with snow. Since arriving at the peak of the wall of Odessa, the weather was steadily monotonous: snow and rain. This weather did not prevent a drop off the goods under the wall, during which the whole group was able to acclimate. Further program do not translate into the current weather conditions, but to wait for better weather was not possible - the expedition was limited, so they decided to catch a weather window and these windows, at least, to start processing route.
5 th managed to fix the wall 2 pitches. 6-second run on the route was not possible - was wet snow and rain. 7-th till lunch to fix another 3 cords. The work was complicated by the effects of yesterday’s weather - the wall was zaleplena snow. After lunch the weather turned bad again - all the same rain and snow hopeless, and 8, and 9 July.
Finally on July 10 gave a good weather forecast - have decided to break away. Indeed, the 10 th was partly cloudy with no rain, managed to reach the shelves, which set the platform and spent a further two nights. But the job that day was complicated in the morning, left over from yesterday’s snow, and the second - falls from him.
But as the snow and ice on the wall was very much, you guys were able to save considerably in weight load on start-up water supplies.
The good weather lasted only one day. 11 and 12 July has again been snowing with rain. But the 12-th still able to move the tent platform above the wall and set them at an altitude of 4200 meters above the 13th start much colder, snow and rain moved slowly just in the snow. The temperature dropped to 10 degrees below zero.
In such weather conditions, even with the change of ligaments, could not move as quickly as hoped, but still they moved up.
In the night from 14 th to 15 th the storm intensified - the wall and platforms buried in snow. But by this time the team has already managed to pass a significant portion of the wall. On the morning of 15 th weather has improved. They went out on a route at 6 am. On snow-covered wall with hard work till the ridge - a lot of unpleasant moments added flying above pieces of ice falling off the wall because of the sun appears intermittently. By the hour of the day climbed to the top, a moment of delight! … And down - was still ahead 1.5 km descent on the wall …
Judges appreciated not only the technical skill of the children, but also their moral and volitional qualities and mental attitude to win! The victory not over the hill, no! No other members of the championship! And over his imperfect body, and sometimes panic, the victory over himself!
Tags: 4810, Championship of Russia, peak of Odessa, Podlesniy Dmitry, высотно-технический класс, Каравшин, пик Одессы, Подлесный Дмитрий, Чемпионат России