
Asan
For the first time getting in Karavshin, involuntarily freezes on the type of Asana, whose profile by actually rises above the base camp. Being familiar with the tops of the area only from photographs, still some sense of long-standing acquaintance with those walls felt: As long as our helicopter not flown into the valley itself. When shooting video at this time in the cockpit with the pilots, I nearly choked on the type FULLY snow walls Asana and dropped the camera on a steel floor …
After a couple of days of acclimatization, climbed on the yellow walls of the classical 5A for exercise and began to wonder, where do to go further.
After consultations chosen route Gorbenko at Asan 6A. Route attracted by its beauty - Is exactly in the center of the wall and goes straight to the top. And the fact that since 1999 on this route, according to our knowledge, no one rose to the top, added zest to the event.
And then, as always: come and climbed. Climb 4 days, because the tent platforms were not, and ledges strictly on schedule
At the extreme top of the wall met the ceiling at 30 feet in the wet Chimney, which ended 10 feet icicle.
АAnd then mix, mix, mix: Rock Shoes and Ice axe, and without even without a lost Fifi hook
The summit met this storm and snow. Had spent the night in a tent 50 meters from the coveted point, having waited the storm and had drunk enough tea to 19.00, we ventured to the link with the base camp to go to the top.
Thus, we were the first who opened the account the routes of the highest category in the 2009 season in Karavshin, having a good style of a beautiful and logical route to deuce on the very center of the wall Asana…



