Posts Tagged ‘Karavshin’

Valentin Sipavin: impressions from Karavshin

Thursday, September 10th, 2009
Asan

Asan

For the first time getting in Karavshin, involuntarily freezes on the type of Asana, whose profile by actually rises above the base camp. Being familiar with the tops of the area only from photographs, still some sense of long-standing acquaintance with those walls felt: As long as our helicopter not flown into the valley itself. When shooting video at this time in the cockpit with the pilots, I nearly choked on the type FULLY snow walls Asana and dropped the camera on a steel floor …

After a couple of days of acclimatization, climbed on the yellow walls of the classical 5A for exercise and began to wonder, where do to go further.

After consultations chosen route Gorbenko at Asan 6A. Route attracted by its beauty - Is exactly in the center of the wall and goes straight to the top. And the fact that since 1999 on this route, according to our knowledge, no one rose to the top, added zest to the event.

And then, as always: come and climbed. Climb 4 days, because the tent platforms were not, and ledges strictly on schedule :) At the extreme top of the wall met the ceiling at 30 feet in the wet Chimney, which ended 10 feet icicle.

АAnd then mix, mix, mix: Rock Shoes and Ice axe, and without even without a lost Fifi hook :)

The summit met this storm and snow. Had spent the night in a tent 50 meters from the coveted point, having waited the storm and had drunk enough tea to 19.00, we ventured to the link with the base camp to go to the top.

Thus, we were the first who opened the account the routes of the highest category in the 2009 season in Karavshin, having a good style of a beautiful and logical route to deuce on the very center of the wall Asana…

Expedition to Karavshin of team the Rostov region finished

Friday, August 7th, 2009
Подлесный Dmitry Podlesny on the wall of the peak of 4810

Dmitry Podlesny on the wall of the peak of 4810

Team Rostov Region (which includes our guide Dmitry Podlesny) safely returned from the expedition in the Kara-Su Valley (Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range)! The team climbed to the peak of 4810 on the route Kritsuka - 6b (the highest) category of complexity. They spent six days on the wall in two tents hanging platforms. Transferred to the tents as we move along the route. The ascent was complicated by severe weather, it is extrinsic to the region at this time of year. But despite all the difficulties, the team as a whole reached the summit and down safely! Congratulations!

An account of this ascent will be served Judges Cup of Russia in the altitude-technical class. The results of the Championship will be known in November 2009.

Our guides in Karavshin

Sunday, June 28th, 2009
peak"4810"

peak"4810"

In July this year, our guides Dmitriy Podlesny and Valentin Sipavin go to Karavshin (Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, Kara-Su Valley).
Granite peaks of the area are rightfully on a par with such recognized giants as wall El Captain in Yosemite, Trang in Pakistan, Hunter Kichatna in Alaska, Fitzroy and Sierra Torre in Patagonia.
Valentine goes to Karavshin as part of the Ukraine national team of Ukraine, Dmitri as part of the national team of the Rostov region. Team of Rostov Region is planning to climb the peak “4810″ in the Championship of Russia in high-technology classroom and the peak of Asan in the championship of the Southern Federal District.
Good luck to Dmitry and Valentin, and their teams!


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